L'Aiguille des Ciseaux (Scissor Peak 3479m) is easy to spot from the village of Chamonix. And indeed, when reaching the summit, it really looks like a pair of scissors, a proper rock blade and it
is very airy when looking down to Chamonix.
Les Ciseaux (à droite), versant Mer de Glace
5 years ago, while I was coming down from the normal route of Aiguille du Moine, my guide, Denis, showed the Troussier Route on the Ciseaux (D,5a) and said that I would probably be able to do it one day. He also said that this route was to be done early in the season because of the bergschrund
And here we are. It's early July and Louis and I are hiking up to the Envers des Aiguilles hut at 2500m.
We left the hut at 5am. The crossing of the bergschrund will take time as Louis also set a fixed rope for the following climbing parties. After the scary crossing of the bergschrund, we started the rock climb, steep, beautiful, never too difficult. We reached the summit slightly before 11am, 4 hours after the bergschrund.
Awesome views. From a distant peak, a friend of Louis took, by chance, a picture of him arriving on the summit.
Then we started to go down, multiple abseils. Lower down, we saw an other guide and his client who left the hut at the same time as we did. And then, it's the bergschrund again....
Small stop at the hut before the ladders leading to the Mer de Glace
An amazing climb, the third I have done from this hut after Republique/Grand Charmoz and Roc Grepon